On a recent trip to South East Asia, we stumbled upon Koh Mook off a ferry heading north from Koh Lipe. We hopped off and bagged ourselves a bamboo bungalow at Koh Mook Coco Lodge. They are spacious, clean and owned by a welcoming Thai couple.
Koh Mook is completely different from the nearby party islands. There are no cash machines, cars or rowdy backpacker bars. It was the ideal stop off point before hitting busy Chiang Mai.
There are a handful of restaurants on Koh Mook that serve excellent vegetarian meals. We found ourselves at Sugar’s Coffee and Restaurant quite regularly, it’s tucked away next to Sivalai beach. Sugar makes excellent banana pancakes and a variety of natural shakes and smoothies for breakfast. We also ate there in the evening and it was so difficult to chose between Thai curry or Phad Thai. After much deliberation I decided on Phad Thai wrapped in egg. I’m glad I did as it was one of the best I had in Thailand!
I had a delicious tofu noodle soup at Boon Chu Cuisine restaurant. They also prepared us fried veggie spring rolls and vegetable tempura. The tempura was lightly battered making it not as greasy as you can sometimes get it. This is a small family run restaurant on the crossroads in the main part of the village. The atmosphere is lively and you’ll find locals and travellers dining and drinking here. The Chang beer is also very cheap which is just what you need after a long day snorkelling! They also have a roti pancake stand and a huge wok that they use to fry slices of banana and sweet potato. They only appeared to be frying veg in the mornings, so get yourself there early. 20 baht (40p) for a bag of fried goodies, it’d be rude not to! We also gave our leftover pieces of batter to the resident dog at Coco Lodge. She looked very hungry and pleased to have a break from her 9 pups!
Coco Lodge also has it’s own small restaurant, however there aren’t many vegetarian choices. Chest, the owner, is happy to replace the meat with tofu. They have the usual Thai curries and noodles dishes.
Koh Mook is a beautiful island that is rustic and off the usual tourist trail. You can access it by boat from Koh Phi Phi/Lanta/Lipe or from mainland Thailand from Trang harbour. You have to catch one of the local passenger boats which takes about 30 minutes to the main pier on Ao Kham beach.