I am currently working as a chalet chef for Snow Retreat based in La Tania. The job is awesome as I get to spend a lot of the time snowboarding in the Courchevel mountains and eating out at some of the local restaurants.
As I am here for 5 months, I like to know where I can go to get a decent vegetarian meal. It is quite hard to find good veggie food in the land of snails and steak tartare, especially in the Savoie region which is well known for it’s hearty meat dishes. The supermarkets are well stocked with tofu, quinoa, lentils and pulses but they don’t seem to stretch onto any menus. Courchevel is also a notoriously expensive ski resort, so I have found some great restaurants that won’t break the bank.
So here goes, in no particular order…
1. The Boulotte, Courchevel Moriond (1650)
I first heard about this restaurant on my first winter season. My friends told me about this place that does “amazing falafel wraps!” I didn’t need anymore persuading, so I snowboarded over to find this spot. It is tucked away down a 1650 side street as you walk off the piste. I have eaten the falafel wrap numerous times and it has never failed me. The wrap is stuffed with tasty falafel, salad, chopped red cabbage and mayo. It also comes with a side of chips for €14. The portion is huge and almost too much to finish! The restaurant is cosy with a laid back atmosphere. Be prepared to share tables with fellow skiers and snowboarders as room is tight but worth it for the great food.
2. Pub Le Ski Lodge, La Tania
Located at the bottom of folyères run into La Tania, this bar/restaurant is a popular stop off point with it’s new extended heated terrace. It’s great for enjoying a beer in the sunshine and also some decent veggie pub grub. There is a wholesome goats cheese salad that is fresh and filling, however you may get a bit of a surprise if the owner, Tim, serves it to you! They also do a homemade veggie burger and chips and various snacks that are served throughout the day, such as cheesey chips and onion rings. Vegetarian main meals are priced very reasonably between €10-€12.
3. Le Bubble Bar, Courchevel Moriond (1650)
Just a few doors up from La Boulotte, this bar/café does some great vegetarian lunches. You can get a huge bowl of nachos with tasty vegetarian chilli and cheese for €7. They also do soup and veggie paninis for around €5. It’s a chilled out bar with chunky wooden tables and a comfy sofa area for relaxing in between skiing.
4. La Taiga, La Tania
This is a popular restaurant in La Tania that serves both traditional Savoyard and modern French cuisine. My favourite dish from here is raclette. Originally from Switzerland, raclette cheese is served with a special machine that melts it onto a plate. It is enjoyed traditionally with special raclette potatoes and cured meats. However, La Taiga offer a vegetarian option with roast vegetables and lots of fresh salad. It’s great to be able to enjoy a Savoyard speciality without feeling like us vegetarians are missing out. This restaurant can get very busy with seasonnaires and holiday makers so make sure you book a table. It also has a cocktail bar area downstairs with live music.
5. L’Arc en Ciel, Courchevel Moriond (1650)
The Snow Retreat team ate here recently for a team member’s birthday. The alpine French decor gives this place an authentic feel which is often hard to find in ski resorts. The restaurant is well known for it’s pizzas so I ordered the La Fermière. Directly translated as the country woman, it is topped with goats cheese, olives, honey and walnuts. I’m not a massive fan of walnuts and as luck would have it, they had run out so they were replaced with flaked almonds. The pizza was delicious and the service all very good. The staff and friendly and attentive. The pizza menu is priced between €10-€16, so for two pizzas and a couple of beers comes to around €40. There is an outdoor seating area for sunny days.